A Pizza Eater’s Guide

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A Manual Of Instructions: For Ordering The Finest Pizza In Town, and Choosing The Best Toppings; With Observations on The History of Pizza, Hints on Life in The Tavern Belt, And Narratives of Pizza Hunting Excursions.

6th Century B.C., soldiers of Darius the Great, accustomed to lengthy marches, bake a kind of flat bread upon their shields and cover it with cheese and dates.

1st Century B.C., Virgil scratches a poem about his favorite food into the dry dusty desert sand. It says something about a shady tree, and a hero, and a city boy born and raised in South Detroit, and a scenty meal of cake and flour, and that’s about all we could understand. We at Prime don’t typically do poems, but this one was about pizza we think, so we made an exception.

16th Century, some Irish dudes travel to the New World (just south of present day Pumpkin Center, SD) and discover tomatoes. They thought they were poisonous so they let the Italians have them.

In 1522, Spanish soldiers flock to the Tavern of the Cerrigloi to feast on the house specialty – pizza. The Tavern of the Cerrigloi was already famous for its other specialty, the tavern of loose meat. Today, some people call these sandwiches Sloppy Joes. We at Prime try not to talk to those people.

In 1905, Gennaro Lombardi opens the United State’s first pizza dive on Spring Street in New York City. Lombardi is now known as America’s “Patriaca Della Pizza.” He’s also known as one of the NFL’s most decorated coaches, coining all sorts of clichés that are still used in post-game interviews.

Some historians believe, however, that the Spink Café actually served pizza first, slinging pie as early as 1896. They stopped serving it just a year later because rural Americans felt that it was just too darn fancy. Besides that, most Spinkertons preferred the other Italian feature on the menu, taverns.

2008, Prime Magazine of Sioux Falls, South Dakota commits to writing one of their most ambitious features to date, a pièce de résistance examining the state of pizza in our humble town. We’ve assembled a first rate panel of judges, all 4 of us have a depth of experience in pizza eating. In the pages that follow, you’ll learn who serves the best pie around. The cheesiest, the crustiest, the sauciest, you’ll learn who serves it fast, hot, cut into squares, cut into parallelograms, triangles, and more.

So here it is then, the Prime Pizza Pages, bon appetite!

LOCAL BUSINESSES

Boss’ Pizza & Chicken
271-2677 • 1921 S. Minnesota Avenue
From what we are lead to understand by staying open until 4am, most of the joint’s pizza will be eaten after the bars close. That is probably for the best, as we tried it on a Sunday football afternoon, and were asked if there was anything else to eat. Maybe it is better later in the evening, and we do appreciate the hours they keep.
Rating: 2.5 Roni’s

Dareo’s Pizza Casino
335-3758 • 2920 S. Minnesota Avenue
335-3442 • 3301 E. 26th Street
A pizza joint that doubles as a casino, or the other way around? Well, they don’t deliver, and that should tell you something. We found Dareo’s crust to be soft and moist in the middle, so much so that the pizza drooped, and it didn’t have enough sauce for our liking. The topping and cheese were fresh and plentiful, but a pizza is the some of its’ parts, and half of these parts were MIA.
Rating: 2.5 Roni’s

Gigglebees
331-4242 • 519 S. Minnesota Avenue
A robotic coyote delivers pizza to screaming punks on a tricycle. Not really about the pizza, is it?
Rating: 2 Roni’s

Rocco’s Pizza

334-9484 • 4930 N. Cliff Avenue
Pizza as original as its name, Rocco’s offers sandwiches and other lunch items along with pizza. While friendly, the emphasis is not exactly on pizza, where we judges prefer it to be.
Rating: 2 Roni’s

Uno Tomato Pizza

339-4740 • 2111 S. Minnesota Avenue

Farmer Jake’s Buffet
361-3733 • 3211 S. Shirley Avenue
A little known Sioux Falls gem and partners in the Farmer Jakes outlet, Uno Tomato is as original as can be. Fresh everything is plentiful, and the staff is easy to get to know and as friendly as they come. Give them a shot for your next catering event, and enjoy some of the best pizza Sioux Falls has to offer.
Rating: 4.5 Roni’s

OUR FIVE RONI WINNERS

RedRossa
339-3675 • 3412 S. Western Avenue
We’ve never seen Naples. We’re going to guess that a lot of people around here haven’t either. So really, RedRossa could serve any style of pizza and call it Napoli pizza and it’s not going to change the fact that we can’t afford to vacation in Italy. My point is that it doesn’t matter. Slogans don’t make a pizza. Pizza chefs do. And it turns out; the chefs at RedRossa do it very well, regardless of where they might get their recipes. Aside from being a bit slick, RedRossa receives high marks from this judge. They prepare their specialty, individual sized, hand-made pizzas in front of your eyes. With the freshest ingredients they create unique recipes like the meaty Italian, the 4 cheese Quattro Formaggi and the always-dependable Sausage & Pepper. They cook it in a wood-burning oven, and they do it fast. In Sioux Falls, RedRossa is a great as it gets.
Rating: 5 Roni’s

Spezia

334.7491 • 1716 South Western Avenue
As kids, Good Times Pizza in Beresford, S.D. headed our list of favorite restaurants. We remember loads of toppings, and the jukebox, and Miss Pac-Man, but what we liked most about Good Times is that they cut their pie into party squares. At the time this seemed like a bold move, and even though some of us were only 10, we appreciated those that weren’t afraid to stray from the herd. Fast-forward about 20 years and we still have a soft spot for pizzas in party squares. Spezia serves one of the favorites, even though if pressed we’d have to say that their slices are more like parallelograms than squares, but we’ll give them the nod because it’s not really that important. What is important is flavor, and Spezia does flavor as good as anyone. Fresh ingredients, finely graded Parmesan, great recipes, service and Spezia understands ambiance like few other restaurants in Sioux Falls. If you’re looking for a go-to pizza on almost any night of the week, try their sausage and roasted peppers pizza. Keep up the great work in your new digs.
Rating: 5 Roni’s

Tomacelli’s Pizza
334-9334 • 2909 E. 10th Street
335-8500 • 2309 W. 12 Street
With two locations covering the Sioux Falls metro, Tomacelli’s is a Sioux Falls original that continues to impress long after some of our judges voted them “Best Pizza in Sioux Falls” before “Best-Of” list were as common as blogs. As one of the first restaurants to use bison meat from our friends at the Lazy RRse Ranch, we commend Tomacelli’s for taking chances and staying true to their art form. Their Stuffed Pie is as good as anything you will find in Chicago with the sauce on the top, and the deep dish is equally great. Go ahead and give the Big Nick a try – your patience will be rewarded. Rare is the local joint that offers so many choices, but when pizza is your one and only passion, it shows.

OUT OF TOWN

Traveling the dusty by-roads for upper Mid-west got ya hankerin’ for some grub? We’ve all been there – and this is what we found. Man do college towns know how to make pizza.

Brickwood Pizza
697-7000 • 1810 6th Street, Brookings • Rating: 4 Roni’s

George’s Pizza

692-6610 • 311 Main Avenue, Brookings • Rating: 4.75 Roni’s

Pizza King

692-4226 • 308 Main Avenue, Brookings • Rating: 3.5 Roni’s

Little Italy’s
624-8000 • 831 Cherry Street, Vermillion • Rating: 4.5 Roni’s

R Pizza
624-6757 • 2 West Main Street, Vermillion • Rating: 3.5 Roni’s

Charlie’s Pizza
665-2212 • 804 Summit Street, Yankton • Rating: 3.5 Roni’s

Pizza Luce
(612) 333-7359 • 119 North 4th Street, Minneapolis, MN • Rating: 4.5 Roni’s

Paglia’s Pizza
(507) 345-6080 • 524 S Front Street, Mankato, MN • Rating: 4.75 Roni’s

THE FRANCHISES

Some folks do it better than others. That’s all we’re saying. We wanted to award three pizza chains with the coveted 5 Francha-Roni award because of the way they do business, and the positive changes that they are making in their quest keep pizza on as many tables as possible.

If your favorite isn’t on the list, don’t fret. Pizza is the most popular food in the good ol’ U.S. of A., and there are bound to be some differences of opinions. Feel free to send us a note, and we will happily consider your comments when 2009 comes around. Who knows – maybe you can become a judge someday…it’s great work if you can get it.

Boston’s Gourmet Pizza
373-0900 • 3202 E 10th Street
It’s really hard to give a favorable review to yet another restaurant that is named after a city other than the city we live in. If Boston’s were named Sioux Falls’s, or South Dakota’s, or Rowena’s, or Murdo’s, we’d probably be able to overlook the fact that their pizza is just OK. It’s OK, this coming from guys who grew up with a life-sized Larry Bird poster on their walls. If Boston’s were to start serving a pizza called ‘Larry Bird’s Sweet 80’s Moustache’ or ‘The 86 NBA Finals’ we might change our opinion, until then we’re just casual fans.
Rating: 3 Roni’s

Casey’s General Store
332-9400 • 701 S. Sycamore Avenue
335-8226 • 1809 E. Rice Street
339-1097 • 500 N. Kiwanis Avenue
335-9507 • 901 E. Benson Road
A little too much cheese, making the pies a little greasy. That said, it is tough to beat the single slices they make available for lunch for ease and price.
Rating: 3 Roni’s

Chuck E. Cheese’s

361-3310 • 2600 S. Louise Avenue
Don’t expect great pizza here, but instead be thankful that they have it while you watch a round headed punk smash his melon running for another slice of pie.
Rating: 2.5 Roni’s

Cici’s Pizza
362-9900 • 5007 S. Louise Avenue
A buffet mostly for the kids (because they say you can bring the whole family…) but it is tough to be at the $5 a head price.
Rating: 2.5 Roni’s

Domino’s Pizza
361-2544 • 2401 S. Shirley Avenue
331-2121 • 1108 S. Minnesota Avenue
371-3322 • 4103 S. Southeastern Avenue
331-5171 • 4009 E. 10th Street
The first of the mostly delivery chains – and the first with the 30 minute guarantee – it seems their marketing has gotten in the way of their innovation. Pizza first, boys.
Rating: 2.0 Roni’s

Godfather’s Pizza

334-5050 • 200 S. Kiwanis Avenue
338-5225 • 2331 E. 10th Street
361-8029 • 5107 W. 41st Street
If it weren’t for their famous Combo, it would be just another joint. But remember the Combo, and the rest of their faults will seems slight. One tip – lose the mildly racist spokesperson. And remember the coupons. $40 for two pies is a little steep.
Rating: 4 Roni’s

Jimmy’s Pizza

275-2525 • 3507 W. 41st Street
Still too early to tell. Our first visit was fine, the second one…not so much. Another Minnesota chain, we wish them consistency.
Early Rating: 2 Roni’s

Little Caesars Pizza
361-4141 • 5417 W. 41st Street
332-3131 • 3221 S. Minnesota Avenue
335-1010 • 1120 E. 10th Street
Another one for the college kids, or just the kids. When the judges have family in town, we order some adult pizza, then stop by and pick up a few $4 pies for the kids. If you don’t pay, you don’t get the combo, capiche?
Early Rating: 2.5 Roni’s

Nick & Willy’s Pizza
362-6228 • 5300 W. 26th Street
A take and bake joint that will bake it for you if you choose. Nice feature, we think. We let them bake it for us as ovens are too inconsistent for us to judge with, and found it unique, but not anything memorable. With Pizza Man just down the street, keep on driving.
Rating: 2.5 Roni’s

Old Chicago
362-8887 • 4301 W. 41st Street
OC’s Double Deckeroni Pizza might be the best pizza ever created by man. It’s heavy and cheesy and meaty and it packs a little something extra, a spicy sauce that stuns you like a lead-block from 90’s Chicago Bear Brad Muster. Pizza purists may disagree. They might say that the honor of best pizza ever created by man simply cannot go to a pizza franchise pizza. But in this case, they’re just wrong. Franchise or no franchise, OC’s Double-Roni kicks like a friggin’ mule.
Rating: 4.25 Roni’s

Papa Murphy’s Take ‘n’ Bake
335-7272 • 1608 S. Sycamore Avenue
332-7272 • 1030 N. Minnesota Avenue
362-4664 • 6729 W. 41st Street
339-4772 • 2101 W. 41st Street
No review – when you can under cook or over cook it because you don’t spend any quality time with your oven, we have to let it pass.

Pizza Hut

335-3333 • 523 W. 10th Street
336-8933 • 2600 W. 41st Street
371-1777 • 4501 E. 26th Street
332-2277 • 2501 W. 12th Street
As the company that tricks out pizza in more ways than anyone or anything else, we have to give them high marks for wild ideas. However, their 520 calorie per slice grease piece that is the meat lovers stuffed crust knocks them down to average.
Rating: 2.5 Roni’s

Pizza Inn
336-2932 • 2208 E. 10th Street
We used to have two, and now we have one. Started in 1958 across the street from SMU in Dallas, Pizza Inn serves the east side well. Their buffet is a big success, and better than you would think.
Rating: 3.5 Roni’s

Valentino’s
339-9900 • 2000 W. 41st Street
Mostly a buffet, Valentino’s was started in Nebraska and has locations throughout the Midwest, as well as providing some carry out options.
Rating: 3 Roni’s

5 Francha-Roni Winners

Papa John’s Pizza
371-7272 • 1914 S. Sycamore Avenue
361-7272 • 5243 W. 26th Street
335-7575 • 711 S. Minnesota Avenue
Papa John’s continues to innovate. Started in a Kentucky broom closet in 1984, their innovations include on-line ordering and including a tasty pepper with every order so you remember that everything you get from Papa John’s closet is as good as you will find.
Rating: 5 Francha-Roni

Pizza Man
977-6000 • 2900 W. 10th Street
Started in St. Paul in 1977, there are now 30 locations in the Midwest. Why does that matter? It matters because that means that they aren’t too far away from their Wisconsin cheese provider. May they never roam too far from home.
Rating: 5 Francha-Roni

Pizza Ranch
271-8646 • 2717 W. 41st Street
Brandon and Tea Locations
Hull, Iowa, may as well be a suburb of Sioux Falls, and we are extremely pleased that the franchise started by a 19-year-old in 1981 has finally returned to Sioux Falls with a 41st Street location. We are also thankful that our friends at Pizza Ranch have completely eliminated PHO’s from their food. We look forward to their second Sioux Falls location, opening in a few months on the east side. All of that, plus their pizza is outstanding, experimenting with things like BBQ chicken. Welcome back.
Rating: 5 Francha-Roni

JUDGES

Ted Heeren

While Ted Heeren felt lucky to be selected as one of the Prime Pizza Pages judges, it would be folly to say that he is not deserving of the honor. He did grow up in rural Norway Center after all, a territory that is widely known for its superior cuisinery. Through the years, superior Lincoln County gourmet has become a staple at many a household. You’ve grown up with dishes like Aunt Selma’s Corn Dish. It should be stated that Aunt Selma is actually Ted’s aunt. In regards to pizza, he eats it 3 times a week at a minimum.

Tom Hurlbert

Tom Hurlbert is a thirty years old and eats pizza five to seven days a week. It might be restaurant pizza, take-out pizza, frozen pizza, Chicago-style pizza, New York-style pizza, Margarita pizza, brick-oven pizza, pizza rolls, pizza bites, pizza burgers, pizza chips, pizza combos, or pizza soup. If you put pizza in the name – he’ll eat it. If hot garbage were made out of pizza, he’d eat that too.

Craig Ellerbroek

Two years ago, while honeymooning in Italy, Craig Ellerbroek had the opportunity to live out a life-long dream: to eat pizza, and only eat pizza for a week. He only failed once in 21 meal opportunities, as he was forced by his new bride to try some pasta thingamajig. The marriage still took, and he and his wife and friends dine on the world’s cheesy hubcap as often as possible. He also conducted several informal surveys regarding pizza for this issue, and discovered that no two people can agree on anything.

Geoff Ellerbroek

Geoff Ellerbroek is a 32-year-old white Midwestern male who insists that pizza is the world’s most perfect food. He understands that it is great hot or cold, fitting for breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks and, depending the choice of toppings, one can enjoy all four food groups in one easy-to-carry-and-eat package. The journey that pizza has made from the flat bread with a tomato, cheese and oregano for only the poorest of the poor to feed their families, to having today’s pizza’s crusts filled with cheese and having more meat and toppings on them than something that has a lot of something on it, then delivered to your door is remarkable, and Geoff appreciates all of the diversity that is pizza.

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